I finally made
it to Haworth to attend the Brontë AGM after many years of wanting to do so.
All in all, it was not unlike how I had imagined it would be; a small village
on a hill surrounded by the moors. However, the Brontë Parsonage was somehow
bigger than I expected (although for the family themselves given the ladies’
fashions of the day, space must have been tight!). The Brontë Parsonage Museum
is partly manned by volunteers who did not disappoint in their dedication and friendliness.
Predictably too, Haworth is packed with Bed and Breakfasts; ye Olde Teashops
and so on. Nonetheless, a suggestion of tweeness is effectively counteracted by
the weight of the history of Brontë family; and the magnificence of the moors.
A wide variety of accommodation is on offer (in some cases at top prices) by
the locals in the absence- thank goodness - of modern hotel chains. Great
efforts are made to create an old world atmosphere in line with the Brontë
story. Especially the standard of breakfasts and bakery is high (waist watchers
be warned); although the tidying up of bathrooms seemed somewhat erratic;
endless supplies of fresh towels either piled high on the bed or in definitely
twee baskets did not address this issue.
What I saw of
the surrounding moors while green and lovely was much less wild than I had
expected (not at all suitable for Cathy and Heathcliff’s ghosts.) But time for
rambling was limited due to the busy academic programme on offer. While packed
with interesting speakers the connection with the Brontës was at best tenuous
in many cases. The showing of the documentary film led to a passionate but
ultimately inconclusive debate as to whether Heathcliff was Irish or black
Caribbean – the jury is still out on
this one and likely to remain so! A further surprise was the existence
of two Haworths – upper and lower – connected by a beautiful and somewhat empty
park and a steep hill.
Apart from the
moors, Patrick Brontë remained a dominant – one has to say - presence. Over the
weekend, one becomes quickly reacquainted with his strong personality; the many
tragic aspects of his life; and his energetic commitment to carrying out his
pastoral ministry including as Vicar of Haworth, against the background of the
lively theological debates raging at the time. Some might wonder then that the summing up accolade
paid to him in the parish church in Haworth in the ceremony to celebrate the
200th anniversary of his marriage to Maria Branwell as well as his Faith, was
that Patrick Brontë was a great British
hero - (Oh well; it is the Jubilee
Year!!)
Again, it was a
Patrick Brontë connection which provided perhaps the most special feature of
the weekend. A visit to nearby Guiseley Church to view the marriage certificate
also provided the opportunity to meet a real live Patrick Brontë relation
through his sister. Carol was sitting in the Church quietly waiting for us and
seemed pleased if somewhat bemused as Brontë enthusiasts eagerly quizzed her on
the connection dating back 200 years, about which she had herself learnt only
recently! Even an actual family resemblance was not ruled out!!
Joana Betson
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